Weep Research Trip: Clare Island
Croagh Patrick from Clare Island
As you drive into Westport along the N5 from Castlebar, the first noticeable points of interest are Croagh Patrick, looming over the town and Clare Island sitting sentinel at the the entrance to Clew Bay. It is the largest of the Clew Bay islands and is famous for being the home of the pirate queen Grace O’Malley. It’s also Irelands most mountainous island. Knockmore stands at 462m.
The ferry crossing from Roonagh Pier took around twenty minutes and seventeen euro. The route I took starts and finishes at the pier in Fawnglass. You follow as close to the coast as is safe for most of it and wander up to the highest point on the island. It took over five hours to complete and I was again struck by the thought that I may have made a mistake in basing a post-apocalyptic horror story in rural Ireland. Though I do like the idea that the infection plays second fiddle to the societal impacts of ‘weepers.’
Views along cliff edges and an unparalleled panorama of the coast of county Mayo had me regularly stopping just to stare at it all. Had I more than the day, I would have spent a lot more time on the pristine beaches and clear watered coves.
The Hike: Follow signs for the lighthouse. You’ll soon leave behind busy beaches and village streets for wilder country. The lighthouse is the only double towered one in Ireland, but it was taken out of service due to it’s height on the cliffs. Often it’s light was muffled by low clouds and mist. I think you can actually stay there, which is definitely now on my bucket list.
From there, head left across open ground to begin the cliff trail. Grazing sheep keep the grass short and the walk pleasant. There’s a constant climb up towards Knockmore with seabirds flying high below you.
The actual climb up the mountain became so steep at points that I wondered if I took off my shoes, could I dig my toes in for extra purchase. One thing was clear, I was not going down the same way I went up.
From the cairn on top of the mountain, I descended by a grassy slope to an old Napoleonic signal tower. From there I followed the road to town and took the ferry back to the mainland.
What does it mean for Weep?
Croagh Patrick dominates the Mayo coastline. On a good, clear day, you can see the church on top of the mountain. So for Fin, there’ll be no hiding from the knowledge of what’s up there. Pretty much everything that happens in Weep The Irish Epidemic takes place in view of the bay.
Weep 3 Feast & Famine starts off with the survivors being taken to Clare Island for quarantine. Fins covered in blood and one of the soldiers lost a finger as a precaution against an infected cut. So the first encounter with the island will be hostile.
Achill Island is within view of Clare Island, so for Rebecca, she’s so close to home that she could nearly swim it. I have a lot of content now to enrich the story of Weep 3. Time to pick up the pace and get on with it. I’ve attached some pictures from my wander below so you can get a feel for the place.
